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Propaganda is probably the only subculture publication known to just about every goth on the planet. This long-running—since 1982 and counting—stylish, visual chronology of subcultures, particularly goth and fetish, is the child of New York photographer Fred H. Berger, who has had a long love affair with the punk/goth/fetish look. "Propaganda," Fred says, "has always been first and foremost an aesthetic publication with a special emphasis on photography. This is what sets it apart from other magazines of the genre, which have focused primarily on music, the scene, and literature. Propaganda never neglected any of these aspects of the gothic experience, and actually enhanced their importance by dealing with them in a highly visual manner, favoring imagery over information in a way which was more compelling than mere verbiage."
Fred believes that the magazine's popularity with goths stems from "their overriding need to escape mundane reality, so they retreat into the shadows and night, body modification, masochism, magic and mysticism, vampiric role-playing, and fetishism. Let's face it, we live in a cultural wasteland where romanticism is considered cornball, imagination is laughable, and anything other than the hetero missionary position is considered pathological. I could tell you more than a couple of stories of kids dropping out of school, attempting suicide, and ending up in psych wards because the world could not accept that they were different. Goths came to see Propaganda as a sanctuary and a source of inspiration in a cruel and heartless world."
Such a cutting-edge visual publication evokes many responses from readers, particularly, Fred says, " 'Where do you find your models?' Well, for starters, there is no agency that offers anything resembling the exquisitely beautiful androgynes found on the glossy pages of Propaganda mag azine." His most famous photo essay featured heroin-chic model Dmitri. "The reaction to 'Anarchy in Moscow,' the tale of a young junkie hustler in Moscow [No. 25,1999], ranged from a group of club kids starting a fund to bring Dmitri to America, to a religious group attempting to bring charges against me for 'solicitation of a prostitute.' Controversy—it goes with the territory."
The past twenty-one years have altered Fred. "In a burst of idealistic naivete, I started down this long, winding, and perilous path. Propaganda magazine has given me the opportunity to travel the globe in an attempt to escape the gravitational pull of bland reality, to seek out the exotic, the hidden, the depraved and otherworldly. But it has cost me my virtue, my vitality, and my hope for the future. I've essentially shot my bolt, having reached beyond where any man should ever reach, having seen what no man should ever see—beauty in extremis, writhing limbs and lapping tongues on crowded dance floors at the four corners of the earth, sex in cemeteries, nocturnal wanderings along streets littered with spent needles and condoms, drinking to the health of the Buddha, gasping for air in the belly of the beast. Perhaps the chaplain was right; perhaps I should have listened to my mother. 'For what shall it profit a man, if he shall gain the whole world, and lose his own soul.' [Mark 8:36]. All is vanity."
the classes of A cUssless subculture
It is mainly North American goths who tend to identify one another by category. It's the same with music. In Europe, goths are more enlightened in many respects, but then this is the home of goth. In other places in the world, like the Philippines, Peru, or the Ukraine, goths are an island unto themselves, floating in a mainstream not so accustomed to subcultures, and those goths must focus on similarities, not differences in their ranks.
One Web site, A Study of Gothic Subculture: An Inside Look for Outsiders (see Chapter 2 URLs), provides a list of goth terms, including categories that goths are often dropped into.
There are many common-denominator categories ascribed to goths, by goths, and by non-goths who are making a statement about what they see. For example:
Blood Drinker. Some goths identify with vampires, but few drink blood on a regular basis. They might indulge in sadomasochistic erotic rituals, or simply be obsessed with vitae and all the symbolism it holds. About a quarter of The f Section have drunk blood, or had their blood drunk, usually during an erotic encounter, and sometimes with a close friend. Others have drunk blood for ritualistic purposes.
Cemetery goth. Most of The f Section prefer graveyards to backyards. Only a very few suffer an aversion to death and everything associated with it; most are intrigued by the concept of demise, and find cemeteries lovely. Death interests include being enamored with lovely gravestones and angel statuary, and fascinated with gravestone inscriptions. As creepy says: "I'm interested, but not in a morbid way. I find the older ones [cemeteries] to be especially intriguing because of the history and stories. They also have beautiful headstones, so I go more for the art." Nevermore, who considers himself a Cemetery/Macabre/Death goth, has a favorite funereal outfit: "Black dress pants, my 1930s priest's cassock, long-sleeve black shirts with the cuffs frayed, East German—issue combat boots, and occasionally a black Clockwork Orange—style derby."
China/Oriental/Baby Doll/Schoolgirl. The innocence of the under aged. Makeup creates prepubescent round or almond-shaped eyes, chopsticks worn in the hair, Suzie Wong dresses purchased at a vintage shop and worn with Doc Martens, Catholic schoolgirl tartan plaid skirts worn with a black PVC top and kneesocks. The Wednesday Addams institutionally gray dress with white Peter Pan collar fits here, too.
Christian goth. What it sounds like—goths with strong Christian beliefs. There are Jewish goths, and probably Muslim, Hindu, and Buddhist goths as well.
Corporate goth. Those who work for a living in the corporations that rule the world. (See Chapter 8)
Cranky and Cynical goth. That is, most goths. In a world where values have gone to hell in a handbasket, a lot of people are cynical. Goths, who are used to deceit and narrow-mindedness directed their way from the general population, become jaded at an early age. "Trust no one" has been a popular slogan since before Fox Mulder was warned for the first time.
"As nothing other than a passionate
expression during lovemaking, I have
been known to bite and draw my lover's
blood from usually the neck or shoulder
area, via transdermal permeation
(through the skin without leaving
marks). Even so, I do not 'feed' in this
manner. I do not need or crave blood.
I simply use the 'vampire's kiss' as a
special sensual enhancer, and as yet
another level of being one at the time
of the most passionate embrace."

"I used to drink other kids' blood when
they hurt themselves in public school.
Sometimes during sex I have tasted that
of my lover. It is quite invigorating."
"It's an aspect of my sexuality, blood drinking being more something I've done to excite other people's kinks, or a byproduct of being a lesbian who isn't cowed by menstration."


Being a full-time cynic is exhausting, and it makes one cranky. But the glorious thing about cynicism is the humor it breeds, and goths are some of the funniest people on the planet. It takes a wound to produce a belly laugh, and the sensitivity that is a prerequisite for being goth lays the groundwork for a twisted view of life. The Internet offers many goth humor Web sites.
Cyber. (See Chapter 3). Futuristic, hardwired, circuit-boarded goths, fingers melded with keyboards, alive with becoming, and doomed by a the-future-is-over attitude. Katwoman considers herself Cyber. "I have always been heavily into sci-fi, computers, graphic novels, futuristic scenes, the Internet, and general computer geek things." Blade in goth makeup, and outfits from The Matrix.
Dark Fairy. Fragile and wispy, these are ethereal boiz and gurrls, otherworldly waifs, on the verge of evaporating into thin air. The ones who give the word "languid" its deliciously consumptive meaning, and for whom fainting couches were invented. The pre-Raphaelites painted them, and fairies were big in Victorian paintings, which often depicted them naked. Queen Victoria herself was dubbed "The Faery" by England's Prime Minister Benjamin Disraeli. Popular goth photographer Stephane Lord makes them a fetish.
Richard Wagner wrote Die Feen (The Fairies) in 1834, and Daniel Auber composed the Parisian grand opera Le lac des fees (The Lake of Fairies), which premiered in 1839. The movie Photographing Fairies is the story of cousins Elsie Wright and Frances Griffith from Yorkshire, who photographed fairies in 1917.
Fairies and Celtic mythology are inextricably intertwined like the knot designs on a Celtic cross. One popular belief is that angels ejected from Heaven fell short of Hell and ended up on Earth as fairy hosts. Ariel of William Shakespeare's Tempest is the most popular classical fairy, and Tinker Bell from Peter Pan is the contemporary notable.
Fairies can represent many things: buried sexual desire, a desperation to escape from daily routine, passion for the unknown (which includes the spiritual and/or occult), and a tribute to the power of feminine energy (in females and males) to charm and seduce. In the past it was thought that cocaine, and absinthe (which was nicknamed "the green fairy") enhanced the ability to see those flighty little beings. Malinda considers herself into the Dark Fairy look and prefers to wear "anything to make me look otherworldly." White Raven wears fairy boots that it are "black, buckled and pointy." And like a lot of the black moths • flitting through the night, she enjoys listening to Celtic songstress Loreena McKennitt.
Dark Wave/New Wave. Eighties-style music. Most of The \ Section enjoy this music, which often includes all of the classic synth bands, like the ones Slavel favors: "Depeche Mode, Pet Shop Boys, New Order, PiL, OMD, INXS, Bauhaus, Frontline Assembly, Skinny Puppy, Legendary Pink Dots, Coil."

Diva. An oval Victorian photograph depicting a large and lovely female draped in lace and satin and velvet, obviously feeling beautiful and unashamedly flaunting her sexuality.
Most denizens of the first world have learned from the media that all goths are cadaverously thin. Many are. Many are not. Goth is a wonderful door through which larger women, and older women, who often are the first rejected—which makes them cranky and cynical—can wander freely without fear of any more rejection than most women suffer, and quite a bit of tender gentlemanly response coming their way. Plus-size and senior goth gur-rls—and boiz!—can wear romantic outfits made of satin, velvet, and lace, dye their hair black as night, and empty a bottle of eyeliner onto their lids and not feel like a freak. Of course, getting to a club for these divas of despair is another story, but once inside, most goths are not so judgmental about divas, and the world becomes refreshingly celebratory.
Elder goth. The originals. Third gen. These are goths who are now over forty, who were there around the mid-seventies when goth first wafted up out of the chaotic mire of punk and took on a darkness all its own. Some of The \ Section who have been goth over 20 years are Elder goths. Vena Cava is "relieved I am not the only [older] one. When I see younger ones I am delighted—the fewer preppy clones the better. But I also realize for many of them it's just a fad." Ravenheart says, "I think the 'vampire youth can be narrow-minded where older people are concerned, like they are the only cool goths and being older equals being uncool. I just laugh, and tell them I have shoes older than them."
Egyptian. Quite a few goths experience a synchronistic attraction to all things from ancient Egypt. This is a world of ankhs, lush quietude and the fragrance of patchouli oil, right from the tombs of ancient Egypt to you! Mummification and ancient funereal customs play a part in this realm, and the inscrutability of ancient symbols. It helps to like cats!
Fetish (See Chapter 8). Those who break out the PVC, chains, and whips. Goth lends itself nicely to fetish. For years, Amelia G and Forrest Blak have run Blue Blood magazine, an artful blend of goth and fetish, full of stylish and sexy photographs and sassy slut-goth fiction. The magazine has been in living-dead mode for sometime, but it's not yet suffered the true death. Amelia G says, "We will continue to publish Blue Blood, but we will do it at a schedule and pace where we can maintain the quality it is known for without suffering to put it out the way we once did. A recording artist who puts out a great album every year or so would be thought to be doing well, and I'd rather do something really good once in a while than do something only sorta good regularly."
Mistress Hades is, among other things, a fetishist. She will carry a black leather riding crop, and her two favorites in footwear are her "thigh-high patent leather boots, and my black leather Oxfords with a 5-inch heel." Shekinah likes her "spiked collars, rubber bracelets, and Betty Page style shoes."
Gay goth. Being both gay and goth can't be easy. Goths on the whole are not fearful of same-sex love, the love "that dare not speak its name." Many of The f Section identify themselves as bisexual, even if they are currently practicing heterosexuals.
Gothabilly. When Elvis meets Elvira! The Cramps first used the term in the late 1970s. The music blends twangy classic country with somber goth rhythms. Bands like Fields of the Nephilism are adored by those into Gothabilly. The fashion playfully blends goth styles and fabrics with country-and-western outfits. These goths will wear goth attire and cowboy boots, and line-dance when nobody is looking. They are the goths who helped make animal prints fashionable, and whose decor isn't complete without a tacky Elvis bust!
Graver. Goths who rave. Usually goths under thirty who like to go to raves and dance to techno all night. They wear gothish black Spandex, modified makeup, and maybe a silver-lame tank top. It's the darkness that differentiates them from fellow ravers: of costume, of attitude.
Industrial (See Chapter 3). Industrial goths bond around Industrial music. They wear basic black, not complex attire, and adornment sometimes involves leather and chains, with or without a fetish edge. This style nudges the biker look. They are ready for physical action, and it's not surprising when an industrial goth ends up buying a motorcycle. These solid worker-bees believe in muscle. They are the guys and girls hired as security at goth clubs, and can come at goth with more action than contemplation. Morbius likes Industrial, and her favorite outfit is "my black oh-crap shirt, black tight pants, black purse with silver, combat boots." Reynaldo is industrial and simply wears "Black T-shirt, black pants." Lisiblac says one of her favorite clothing items is her "black leather biker jacket." She recalls: "Neil Gaiman (see Chapter 9) [who usually appears in public in a black leather jacket] said to me at a signing once, 'It's not a jacket, it's an environment!' Spot on!"
Kindergoth. Aka Baby goth. These are the sixteen-and-under goths, illegal still, and pressured from every direction — parents, school, religion, community — not to be goth, but to conform and be "normal." These are the gothlings mimicked on Saturday Night Lives "Goth Talk." It's easy to poke fun at younger people, especially junior goths, who are struggling to test out everything in a world where all is new and fresh. Yet they are dependent, often stuck in an environment that does not encourage dark exploration. Many Kindergoths are huge fans of Marilyn Manson (see chapter 5) because Manson seems to speak to them. Vile is sixteen and a kindergoth. She likes to wear "a large black velvet Mad Hatter hat, black ballet shoes, black fishnet is a must, any cute morbid T-shirt, Jack Skellington jewelry, and black and white Spice Girl sneakers with striped tights." She listens to a lot of "Old School music, and Sneaky Bat Machine, the Cruxshadows, and the Misfits."
Medieval/Renaissance. Those enamored with knights and their ladies, the world of Camelot, and courtly love. XjUsTcRuCijyX loves her "Medieval dress, flowing witch skirt, and my arm warmers, which I made." The Crow prefers to "dress Medieval from head to toe for parties." Arantele likes her "Medieval-style belt made by Black Widow Designs."
Net.goth. Goths who virtually live on the Internet (See Chapter 9).
Perky goth. Terminally happy creatures of the night, these are often the goths who get things done. They are enthusiastic about goth and about life, and such happiness can irk other goths who see an abundance of joy as the annoying opposite of sorrow. Perky goth usually carries a negative connotation, but not always. Micah considers herself perky. She likes to wear "Poofy and swingy transparent skirts, and corsets."
Poseur. Goth wannabes, usually young kids going through a goth phase who do not hold to goth sensibilities but want to be part of the goth crowd for one reason or another. In a year or two you can hear them whine dis-missively: "I was goth when I was younger but I grew out of it." Daoine o' has trouble with these " 'Batbabies' whose clothing is no doubt bought at Hot Topic with Mommy and Daddy's money!"
For most goths, a goth is a goth for life. As Neil Caiman says, true goths are "born to it."
Ptinky goth. Delightful relics no matter their age, these throwbacks provide a taste of the post-Punk era when punk and goth were joined at the hip like dark and darker. A typical look is a T-shirt with the sleeves ripped out, army fatigue pants, and a fauxhawk. Prosthetic God likes the punk look, and wears "my mesh top and white fishnet stockings. A Celtic ring my mother bought me, my studded bondage/dog collar, my Medieval necklace, also bought by my mum. 20 eye Docs but I still lust over a pair of kneehigh Rocks." RaFeNz\so loves the punky goth look: "My spike necklace and my huge wallet chain, really tall platforms from Hot Topic, my black glitter bondage pants, and my black beater with an anarchy sign on it. My hair is blond with bloodred tips, dyed with Manic Panic."
Slut aka Femme Fatale aka Vamp. Gurrls and boiz you might not trust around your significant other. The term slut when used in the goth world also means a sexy, sometimes sleazy look that has its own appeal. Trouble comes when the slut acts out that sleaziness, making life messy for everyone too close for comfort.
Tribal aka Pagan. Those with the maximum number of tattoos, piercings, and gothified dreadlocks, and a plethora of chains. Equally responsible with Gothabillies for animal prints. Taoist wears a "Black Spank top with silver tribal motif and exposed midriff, and Australian cowboy boots with two-inch heels." He also has "seven wicked tattoos."
Ubergoth. Way over the top. The goths who dress to the nines to run out and buy milk.
Vampire. Those in love with the image and lifestyle of the undead. Vampires are mysterious, charming when they want to be, sexy. They almost always get their way, are eternally gorgeous, and do not suffer fools at all. Nimue describes herself as into the Vampire look. She favors "Morticia-sleeved shirts." VampirMike adores "my lovely bat necklace." Vena Cava is an eclectic vampire. "I'm a Vampoccalyte, someone who believes in the apocalypse and is a bit bloodthirsty about it. And an Envirogoth, a banshee crying the earth is dying, stop killing it."
Victorian, (see Chapter 3). Goths enamored with gentle spectacle, the subtlety of romance and courtly love. Victorian goths adore the languid lifestyle. They emulate those ladies and gentlemen who gave a serious nod to manners and decorum—hand-kissing is de rigueur—all while wearing lush attire that can border on the baroque. The New York boutique Religious Sex is one well-known purveyor of goth Victorian attire for all genders. Moonglum loves the Victorian period. A special article of clothing he values is "a hand-made black velvet cloak with purple satin lining made by my wife for our wedding." Paola wears "long skirts, tailored jackets, long
X "I was given the name Xavier, and I really like the name. It's often mispronounced, as is my first name. One of my all-time favorite paintings is Madame X by Sargent, (a notorious yet regal Victorian lady wearing a then-thought-to-be-scandalous black dress falling off her shoulders.) I resisted taking on the name in my younger days. Today, being a rather well-known elder goth, who fancies the arts and boasts of her Victorian sensibilities, I have accepted the scene name proudly. Besides, I really can't keep the strap on my shoulder."
Vctu CAPA"! changed my birth (dull) name to this in 2000-new name for a new millennium. Loosely translated, it is Latin for Nightvein, because I consider
myself a true creature of the night
(night runs through my veins), and it
sounds deliciously vampiric, as the vena
cava is the big vein in your heart."
"Pronounced rose. It's the name of the main character in one of my favorite novels. Also because it was easier to spell than Brociliande (which got me called Broccoli for a few years)."

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